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We are all familiar with the saying that together we are stronger. Superheros and power couples have shown this, you only need to look at some of the dynamics of Batman and Robin. Antman and Wasp, Beast and Wonder Man, Captain America and Iron Man to appreciate the results of their teamwork.
The same applies to skincare. In skincare, a single hero ingredient may be powerful but, when teamed up with the right component the two can be a force to be reckoned with to super your skin to a flawless finush.
So let’s take a look at some ingredients when teamed together, can work wonders
Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide
Reason:
Acne is an inflammatory disease therefore, using the correct products help to manage
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that helps to exfoliate the skin removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin preventing clogging of pores. It removes excess oil and debris. In addition, it removes blackheads, addresses pimples, and shrinks pores. Its anti-inflammatory properties reduce redness and irritation.
On the other hand, Niacinamide reduces sebum production and pore size thereby improving the overall texture of the skin.
What’s more, its soothes redness and irritation. When used together there is a compounded benefit for acne-prone skin.
Retinoids and Niacinamide
Reason:
Retinoids are the gold standard in antiageing skincare as they are backed by numerous scientific evidence.
They increase cellular turnover, boost the production of collagen maintain the firmness of the skin, fight free radical damage and increase production of glycosaminoglycans AKA hyaluronic acid, however they compact the stratum corneum which is the dead outer layer of the skin which may lead to irritation and dryness especially when the treatment is initiated. Combining Retinoids with Niacinamide which is a form of vitamin B3 will address the dryness and irritation of retinoids as it increases the level of free fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol thereby healing the skin and reinforcing its barrier.
Vitamin C plus Vitamin E plus Ferulic Acid
Reason:
Aids in the production of collagen which in turn maintains skin firmness
Combats free radical damage by happily donating its electron to the free radical sparing the skin from being robbed and damaged.
It brightens skin and diminishes the appearance of dark spots. Vitamin C as L ascorbic is highly unstable therefore adding Vitamin E and or Ferulic acids stabilizes the vitamin C increasing its longevity. Vitamin C is a water-soluble molecule whilst Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble molecule. Their penetrations into the skin utilize different stages to ensure a more effective neutralization of free radicles.
Retinol with Ferulic Acid
Reason:
The combination of retinol with ferulic acid enhances the delivery of retinol enabling it to be absorbed deeper thereby increasing its effectiveness.
Retinol and SPF
Reason:
As retinol facilitates cellular turnover, it may be more exposed and risk to UV radiation therefore sun protection is paramount and throughout the year as UV rays can penetrate even on a cloudy day and even through the glass of the windows.
Vitamin C plus Broad Spectrum Sunscreen
Reason:
Vitamin C has a sun protection factor of 4-5 and when combined with SPF is a powerhouse though not a substitute for sunscreen
AHA/BHA with moisturizers
Reason:
BHAs such as salicylic and AHAs glycolic acid must be complemented with moisturizers to avoid the drying effects of the acids It is worth. If your skin is oily and acne-prone, use an oil-free moisturizer to add back hydration that could be stripped away.
AHA AND BHA with SPF
Reason:
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) such as mandelic acid and glycolic as examples have water-soluble properties and act to dissolve the bonds between the dead skin cells thereby exfoliating resurfacing the skin reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, addressing acne scars, and evens skin tone
Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid is an oil-soluble acid that penetrates beneath the skin surface eliminating excess sebum, unblocking pores making it an amazing ingredient for acne-prone skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid have can increase the risk of sun damage and pigmentation and therefore it is vital to apply sunscreen with a minimum sun protection factor of 30. In fact, sunscreen should be applied every day.
So, what should retinol be paired with, if anything? And why?
Retinol and HA and Ceramides
Retinol can be combined with moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
Reason:
Humectant ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are water-retaining molecule, therefore, draws water and hold on to it hydrating the surface layers of your skin, while oil-based emollient ingredients such as ceramides help seal in moisture. They are, therefore, ideal to counteract the drying or irritating effects of retinol on the stratum corneum.
Retinol and SPF
Reason:
As mentioned, retinol enhances cellular turnover, it may be more exposed and risk to UV radiation therefore sun protection is paramount throughout the year as UV rays can penetrate even on a cloudy day and even through the glass of the windows.
It is always recommended that you should use your retinoids at night as sunlight can degrade and deactivate them, in addition, cellular turnover occurs whilst we are sleeping and therefore this will synergize with the action of retinol to achieve cellular renewal.
Check out my post highlighting the importance of retinoids in skincare
Retinol with Niacinamide
Reason:
Retinol increase cellular turnover, boost the production of collagen maintains the firmness of the skin, fight free radical damage and increase production of glycosaminoglycans AKA hyaluronic acid, however they compact the stratum corneum which is the dead outer layer of the skin which may lead to irritation and dryness especially when the treatment is initiated. Combining Retinoids with Niacinamide which is a form of vitamin B3 will address the dryness and irritation of retinoids as it increases the level of free fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol thereby healing the skin and reinforcing its barrier.
Retinol with Ferulic Acid
Reason:
The combination of retinol with ferulic acid creates enhances the delivery of retinol enabling it to be absorbed deeper thereby increasing its effectiveness.
What about hyaluronic acid – many make the mistake of putting it on a dry face, can you explain why that is bad and what you should pair it with?
Hyaluronic acid can hold 1000 times its weight in water and therefore, hyaluronic acid is a water-retaining module and not a water-generating module.
In essence, when applied to the skin it cannot penetrate deep into the skin unless injected with a dermal filler used to replenish the loss of volume, contour, and shape of the face or as part of an injectable skin booster.
Instead, it grabs water from the surrounding environment and holds on to it. You may notice that in dry climates with little water content in the atmosphere your skin can actually feel dry.
However, polyglutamic acid (PGA), a water-soluble peptide is 5 times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid and therefore holds up to 5000 times its weight in water.
Studies have shown that beta-glucan is 20% which is also a glycosaminoglycan as hyaluronic acid is more hydrating than hyaluronic acid at the same concentration.
Beta-glucan occurs naturally in our body and in many sources of food such as oats for example.
Beta-glucan is a powerful humectant, which means not only provides intense hydration for the skin but it also helps to prevent moisture loss!
However, unlike hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan forms a thin film onto the skin when applied to lock in moisture.
But wait! It gets better, beta-glucan also holds on to water after it has penetrated deeply into the skin. So, unlike hyaluronic acid, Beta-glucan hydrates from inside out.
However, to sustain the longevity or the activity of topical hyaluronic acid, apply a moisturizer on top.
Check out my post on why beta-glucan is more superior to hyaluronic acid
What should you pair niacinamide with? And why?
Niacinamide can be combined with almost every skincare ingredient. As it is an anti-inflammatory there is minimal skin reaction or adverse effects, however, be mindful that higher percentages of Niacinamide of around 10% may induce irritation, redness, or dryness, and therefore it is worth keeping the percentage in the range of 4-5%
It is also worth noting that in theory to avoid applying niacinamide and vitamin C (L ascorbic acid) simultaneously as this may diminish their potency. However, this may be the case in extreme heat over a prolonged period of time and not necessary with the parameters of daily application. Nevertheless, it may be possible to do so by leaving a minimum of 10 minutes between the two applications.
What should you pair vitamin C with? And why?
Vitamin C plus Vitamin E plus Ferulic Acid
Reason:
Aids in the production of collagen which in turn maintains skin firmness
Combats free radical damage by happily donating its electron to the free radical sparing the skin from being robbed and damaged.
It brightens skin and diminishes the appearance of dark spots. Vitamin C as L ascorbic is highly unstable therefore adding Vitamin E and or Ferulic acids create stabilizes the vitamin C increasing its longevity. Vitamin C is a water-soluble molecule whilst Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble molecule. Their penetrations into the skin utilize different stages to ensure a more effective neutralization of free radicles.
Vitamin C plus Broad Spectrum Sunscreen
Reason:
Vitamin C has a sun protection factor of 4-5 and when combined with SPF is a powerhouse though not a substitute for sunscreen
Check out my post on the importance of using sunscreen throughout the year
What are ceramides good for? what should you pair with them? And why?
Ceramides are long-chain fatty acids that link with other vital molecules to ensure optimal cellular function. Ceramides create a barrier to prevent permeability. This locks moisture into your skin, which helps prevent dryness and irritation. Therefore, they are an integral part of the skin barrier function and the prevention of transepidermal water loss They are compatible with skincare ingredients
What is Vit K good for? and what should you pair vitamin K with? and why?
There are mixed views with regards to the level of benefit that vitamin K in skincare. However, some studies have shown that in skincare, vitamin K may have benefits such as brightening tired-looking eyes to reduce dark circles especially when paired with retinol, It may also promote skin elasticity when paired with caffeine as caffeine may decrease puffiness, improve circulation and speed up healing and repair of damaged skin after aesthetic procedures such as laser treatments.
Vitamin K possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties thereby addressing both inflammations and protecting against free radical damage. Some studies have also shown that oral Vitamin K can maintain healthy blood sugar levels as high levels may contribute to the prevention of premature ageing.
Vitamin K2 is vital for post-menopausal women due to the decline of oestrogen leading to an approximate 20% loss of bone density. In addition, 30% of collagen is lost in the 5 years following menopause. The decline of oestrogen is linked to ageing and changes in bone structure can alter the infrastructure of the face. Vitamin K2 not only prevent calcification of the blood vessels but can also prevent excess calcium in the skin’s elastin thereby reducing the appearance of lines, wrinkles and minimising skin laxity. Vitamin K2 has been shown to improve bone quality.
should AHA/BHA be combined with moisturisers?
BHAs such as salicylic and AHAs glycolic acid must be complemented with moisturisers to avoid the drying effects of the acids It is worth. If your skin is oily and acne-prone, use an oil-free moisturizer to add back hydration that could be stripped away.
What about AHA/ AND BHA with an SPF?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) such as mandelic acid and glycolic as examples have water-soluble properties and act to dissolve the bonds between the dead skin cells thereby exfoliating resurfacing the skin reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, addressing acne scars and evens skin tone
Want to learn more? Head over to Etre Vous for useful tips on healthy glowing skin
It is always recommended that you should use your retinoids at night as sunlight can degrade and deactivate them, in addition, cellular regeneration occurs whilst we are sleeping and therefore this will synergise with the action of retinol to achieve cellular renewal.
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